ANNAPURNA TREKKING TOUR

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT TREKKING TOUR




Day 1
Besisahar
Bahundanda
North
28°13.94'
28°20.55'
East
84°22.62'
84°24.50'
Altitude
800m
1,200m

Ascent
400m
Time
5 hours
Distance
18 kilometres




Begin the 300 kilometre Annapurna Circuit trek by walking north up Besisahar's main street. At the end of the street, you will find a flight of stone steps leading down to the right. Descend by these steps to the stream below and cross it to reach the bank of the Marsyandi river.
Follow the path, passing the Danish technical school on your right. Cross a wooden bridge over a stream.
At the Khudi Khola you may cross either of two suspension bridges to reach the village of Khudi. The older and more exciting bridge leads directly into the village of Khudi. The new bridge remains unused except by trekkers of a nervous disposition. Turn right through Khudi.
At Bhule Bhule, cross the large well made suspension bridge onto the right bank of the Marsyandi River and then turn left, to continue north east up the valley.
Do not forget to visit the ACAP post at Bhule Bhule to sign in. You can buy your ACAP permit here for 1,000 Rupees. The ACAP posts are also for your benefit. Should something happen to you, the ACAP records of trekkers at least helps to narrow the search area.
The path leads through rice fields down to the very bank of the Marsyandi river. At a fork take the left path, not the steep stone steps on the right. Pass through Ngadi [28°18.29'N 84°24.21'E]. Just north of Ngadi cross a suspension bridge. Soon in the distance you will see a hill with the village of Bahundanda in the col to the left. Ngadi is a Nyeshang village founded by the people of Manang.
Continue through the rice fields, gradually ascending until the path becomes a lot steeper at the hill. The col and village are at the top of the steep climb.
The Hindu Brahmin village of Bahundanda contains of good example of the economic effects of lodge recommendations by guidebooks. One hotel has a large notice board advertising that it is recommended by a certain well known guide book. This lodge has expanded recently. This lodge is no better than the other excellent lodges in Bahundanda. Making a long term recommendation based upon one person's opinion on one date is surely unfair. It is particularly unfair if the guidebook writer did not also stay at the other lodges as well, to make a fair comparison. A recommendation such as this places an unjustified long term capital advantage into one lucky owner's hands. It discourages other lodge owners from investing and is naturally resented by them. This guidebook will not make lodge recommendations (well, only one!) believing that each trekker is able to choose his or her own accommodation.

Day 2
Bahundanda
Chamje
North
28°20.55'
28°25.93'
East
84°24.50'
84°23.65'
Altitude
1,200m
1,436m

Ascent
236m
Time
3 hours 15 minutes
Distance
12 kilometres




This is an easier day than yesterday, and begins with a gentle but perhaps unwelcome descent from Bahundanda to Syange. An hour after leaving Bahundanda a large waterfall may be seen. A suspension bridge carries the path across the Marsyandi river to its left bank and the little 'village' of Syange. Syange clings to the cliff face. The path becomes a narrow gorge with the cliff on the left and the hotels to the right. One of the two hotels has an interesting dining room with a panoramic window. The hotels here are the:
New Thakari Guest House
Sonam Tibetan Hotel
Continue for one and a half hours to Jagat (2 hours 30 minutes). Jagat has 4 hotels:
Tibetan Pemba Lodge
Everest Hotel
Sushma Lodge
Manaslu Lodge
There is a hot spring 15 minutes down the hill below the Manaslu lodge, however it is not recommended.
Follow the path as it ascends for another 45 minutes until a large waterfall may be seen on the other side of the valley. Chamje (3 hours 15 minutes) lies just beyond here. The first hotel reached is the Tibetan Hotel. The main village lies a few minutes further on in a narrow gorge. The hotels here are:
Lhasa Guest House
Potala guest House
There is also a shop and a school, not that you will need one. The village also has a huge cave which can be used to shelter animals, if you have any trekking with you.

Day 3
Chamje
Bagarchap
North
28°25.93'
28°31.74'
East
84°23.65'
84°20.64'
Altitude
1,436m
2,070m

Ascent
634m
Time
5 hours 30 minutes
Distance
15 kilometres





Leave Chamje and after 10 minutes cross the bridge to the right hand bank of the Marsyandi River. After 20 minutes pass under a huge boulder, from where the path ascends. The village of Sattare (50 minutes) is reached in another 20 minutes. You may find here the hotels:
Thorung Peak
Ganga La
Mountain View
Bamboo
The path drops steeply and then levels out. At Tal Besi there are two hotels. Continue as the path ascends to Tal village (2 hours 30 minutes).
Tal is situated on a former lake bed. It looks rather like a town on a western movie set. Its wild west image is quite appropriate as it is the entrance to the independent spirited Manang region. With so much land available many lodges have been built here. There is an ACAP office.
Leave Tal and after about 15 minutes pass through maize fields and a small village with a paved road. About 10 minutes further on the path forks. Take the left hand lower path past a field of pine saplings (At least they were in 1997). Cross a bridge ( 3 hours 15 minutes) to the left bank of the Marsyandi River. Pass a small village with maize fields and the Laxmi Hotel.
The Manaslu hotel is reached after 3 hours 50 minutes. Cross a bridge next to a small hotel to reach the right bank of the Marsyandi River (4 hours 10 minutes). 10 minutes further on, when the path forks (4 hours 20 minutes), take the right hand fork up stone stairs.
Dharapani [28°30.89'N 84°21.70'E] (4 hours 45 minutes) has a police check post, 4 hotels a telephone centre and a shop, but in 1997 there was no fridge. Dharapani does, however, make a very tasty local apple pickle which I recommend trying. 15 minutes from Dharapani is Thonche with more hotels and a path alongside the Dudh Khola. Shortly after this the path gradually turns west. There is a marked change in the vegetation at this point. Conifers make their appearance, along with ferns. Livestock are now cows rather than water buffalo. Although this marks a transition to a cooler dryer climate, it also indicates that the people from here on are Buddhist rather than Hindu.
Bagarchap [28°31.74'N 84°20.64'E] (5 hours 30 minutes) is marked by a gateway and a memorial plaque for those who died in the Bagarchap landslide of the 10th of November 1995. Nevertheless Bagarchap is still an interesting village despite the landslide which destroyed around 80% of the village. Enough remains of the Tibetan Houses and cobbled streets to see what it was like before the landslide. The landslide appears to have rolled down the hill to the west and then unfortunately turning right across the village. Most of the lower village is gone. Only the Marsyandi Hotel survived. Higher up some houses and the new monastery remain intact.
The village is surrounded by apple Orchards and maize fields. Open views include Manaslu 8156 metres to the East. The Marsyandi Hotel's miraculous escape may be seen in the drawing. The landslide halted resting against the lower wall of the hotel. This has since been dug out. Access to the upper floors is a lot easier now. The proprietor of the hotel was in the hotel at the time of the disaster. It is sad to reflect on how many friends he must have lost so suddenly. But he seems quite cheerful despite his loss.
Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998

Day 4
Bagarchap
Chame
North
28°31.74'
28°33.28'
East
84°20.64'
84°14.63'
Altitude
2,070m
2,600m


Ascent
530m
Time
3 hours 25 minutes
Distance
13 kilometres




Follow the path over the avalanche debris past the Buddha Hotel and the first Buddhist prayer wall. Bagarchap marks the end of Hindu influence and the start of Buddhism in the valley.
After 15 minutes pass a suspension bridge but do not cross it. Continue along the left bank of the Marsyandi River past fields of barley. Manaslu may be seen behind you. Danaqu (20 minutes) is a new village where the lodges destroyed in Bagarchap are being rebuilt away from danger. In 1997 there were several under construction.
Pass through thick woods (1 hour) and over a concrete bridge by a waterfall. At Temang [28°31.53'N 84°18.82'E 2310m] (1 hour 15 minutes) there is a small lodge and the last view of Manaslu until Chame. Five minutes out of Temang there is a loose landslip area just above the Marsyandi River. Take care here.
Latamrang [28°32.28'N 84°18.39'E] (1 hour 50 minutes) has 3 lodges:
Tatopani
Tibetan Hotel
Mountain View
On the other side of the Marsyandi River, inaccessible since the bridge was washed away, is a hot spring. The Tatopani lodge has pictures of the owner on active service with the Gurka battalions of the British Army during the Gulf war.
After 25 minutes (2 hours 15 minutes) cross a small bridge. The road forks by an apple orchard. Take the lower path, its easier. This area has beautiful woodland. Some of it has been cleared, although this improves the view and allows flowers to flourish. A small lodge [28°32.76'N 84°17.31'E 2,571m] is a good place to stop for lunch.
The gateway to Kyupar village (3 hours 10 minutes) is reached after 20 minutes walk from the small lodge. Kyupar is opposite the Naur Khola valley, an ancient trade route into Tibet via the Luqula Banjyan Pass 6,260 metres. The entrance to the Naur Khola valley looks rather like El Capitan at the entrance to the Yosemite valley, California. There are at least 4 hotels:
Manaslu
Mustang
Eagle
Manang
Just before you leave Kyupar is a Police Post.
Chame (3 hours 25 minutes) lies 15 minutes beyond Kyupar. Chame was hit by a landslide in August 1997. It wrecked the provocatively named Peace Zone Hotel and buried the hot spring by the New Tibetan Hotel.
The New Tibetan Hotel is perched beneath a conglomerate cliff just above the Marsyandi River. The narrow strip of land on which it stands is threatened by erosion from the Marsyandi. The New Tibetan Hotel is also in danger of having its identity stolen by the New Tibet Inn. This newer hotel blocks the path to and obscures the view of the original New Tibetan Hotel. No doubt the local lawyers will soon have work to do.
The view from Chame includes Lamjung Himal 6,983 metres, Annapurna II 7,937 metres and Manaslu 8,156 metres.


Lamjung Himal seen from Chame

Chame is the administrative headquarters of the Manang region. It has 5 shops, a pharmacy, a branch of the Nepal Bank, a post office, the police headquarters (but they don't want to see your trekking permit), and a telecommunications shop. There is a doctor in Chame. Above the village just to the south is a gompa and numerous government buildings. To reach the small gompa, walk up the path between the Jupiter Hotel and the secondary school. Turn left at a stupa and then up a steep path.
Copyright Ian P Johnson October 1998
Day 5
Chame
Pisang
North
28°33.28'
28°36.89'
East
84°14.63'
84°9.00'
Altitude
2,600m
3,400m

Ascent
800m
Time
4 hours 30 minutes
Distance
16 kilometres





Walk out of Chame past the prayer wheel wall outside the village. You should walk past all prayer walls with the wall to your right (Britons and Australians can treat them like roundabouts)
Twenty five minutes out of Chame is another prayer wall and views of Lamjung Himal. Kreku (30 minutes) contains the Namaste Hotel and Lodge. There is a prayer wall here. Continue to Bhratang [28°33'71"N 84°11'69"E] ( 1 hour 35 minutes) past a water powered prayer wheel, a prayer wall, and apple orchards. Bhratang is a wonderfully peaceful and clean little village. It must have been very different in the 1960s when this was Tibetan refugee camp and guerrilla fighter camp. Bhratang has 2 hotels:
Hotel Raju
Maya Hotel
Fifteen minutes later the path enters a section where it is cut out of a cliff on the right bank of the Marsyandi. The remains of an old bridge may be seen down on the left, but DO NOT walk and look at the same time!
On the right, the huge slabs of the Oble Dome (2 hours 10 minutes) may be seen. The Oble Dome is significant in the Buddhist and Bon Po rituals of the Gurung people of Taje village, above Bagarchap. The spirits of the dead are believed to ascend the Oble Dome on their final journey back to their ancestral home of Tibet.
Five minutes further on the path crosses a new bridge to the left bank of the Marsyandi River. From here, the path climbs steeply for 40 minutes. The air is full of the scent of pine as the path levels out in a beautiful pine forest. Sadly many of the trees are being felled to build new hotels, such as the Trekker's Inn. It is finally possible to see westwards up the valley. The fields of Upper Pisang may be seen in the distance. Continue westwards along the dusty path, strewn with pine needles and pine cones. A shallow lake provides watering for horses and ponies in the fields. The environment is so different from what has gone before, that its like being transported to another country.
Continue along the path until you reach the many high-rise hotels of Lower Pisang. (4 hours 5 minutes) Lower Pisang is almost entirely devoted to the trekking industry. To see a real Manang Bhot village, climb 250 metres uphill to Upper Pisang (4 hours 30 minutes).
If you are charmed by snotty nosed kids, then mediaeval Upper Pisang is the place for you. To be fair to the Pisang children and their parents, Upper Pisang is very dusty. No one seems to mind though. Whilst I was there in October, the children helped their parents carry the harvest from the fields to the village.
In the Shanti Hotel, guest meals are prepared on a traditional Tibetan hearth. Japanese visitors may notice the similarity between the traditional hearths used here and those in Japan. Guests may be invited to sit around the fire. You will be glad of the warmth for it can be quite cold up here. The lodges in Upper Pisang serve the official menu, but they also serve Tibetan Tea, which tastes like liquid stilton cheese. Another speciality is 'Dozo', a sort of barley porridge is served with a dollop of chilli sauce in the centre.
Sadly, Upper Pisang is showing some signs of deterioration, although it has a new school, health post and electric power. Lets hope the people of Upper Pisang realise what a gem their village is before it is too late.
If you have the time, or stay in Upper Pisang for a day's acclimatisation, then visit the fields and forests above Upper Pisang. Before Pisang became a cultivated village this area was a communal hunting forest. That is the origin of the name Pisang. Above the fields behind the village are the remnants of the forest. It seems ideal for the courting couples of Pisang.

Day 6
Pisang
Manang
North
28°36.89'
28°39.69'
East
84°9.00'
84°01.61'
Altitude
3,400m
3,606m

Ascent
206m
Time
4 hours 20 minutes
Distance
12 kilometres


Leave Upper Pisang fondly behind, descend the path and recross the bridge over the Marsyandi River to the left bank. Continue westwards along the path. The village of Gyaru may be seen high on the hillside on the right (30 minutes). Pass the small village of Sabche ( 1 hour 15 minutes) and then an abandoned Tibetan village with a small prayer wheel wall (1 hour 20 minutes). A little farther on the village of Gnarwahl may be seen high on the northern hillside. Hongde (1 hour 35 minutes) has an impressive prayer wheel wall. Perhaps it is intended as insurance for the air passengers travelling through Hongde Airport. Hongde has many hotels, but only passengers stay overnight here. The hotels include:
Manya Lodge
Airport Hotel
Marsyandi hotel
Shanta hotel
Jullu Peak Lodge
Tibetan Lodge
Hotel Annapurna
Hongde also has the airport reception and the Royal Nepalese Airlines office. There is a police post to the west of Hongde.
Cross a small bridge (2 hours) although remaining on the left bank of the Marsyandi River. Pass a small pond. Cross a bridge over the Marsyandi River and pass a partially deserted Tibetan settlement (3 hours 25 minutes). Pass the Munghi Restaurant and a water powered prayer wheel. At 3 hours 40 minutes, Manang may be seen in the distance.
Braga (3 hours 50 minutes) is a Tibetan style village perched on an ancient eroded hillside just 5 minutes north of the main path, beyond a meadow. As Braga is not on the main path, the villagers have built a couple of hotels by the path, in order to get some economic benefit from the increasing trekking industry. The New Yak hotel is one, but the one really deserving mention is the Braga Bakery. The cakes in here are absolutely world class. The coffee is heavenly. You don't need a guide book to tell you this though. You can smell the coffee aroma from the path.
Braga Gompa is one of the oldest and most interesting Buddhist monasteries in the region. The people of Manang village recommend it, which is high praise given the rivalry between Manang and Braka. The Gompa is open to visitors from 7am to 10 am and 1pm to 5 pm. The lama will show you around. Be sure to leave a small donation. Even the locals do this. You would no doubt do the same in your place of worship at home.
Manang (4 hours 20 minutes) has acquired a reputation as a cosmopolitan centre of some sophistication. As you would expect from a town which has given its name to the region it is larger than the surrounding villages, claiming a population of around 5,500.




Manang has more 'German' restaurants than London. Meat is served in Manang, including 'yak burger'. There is an imposing range of food on the menus. The menu of one restaurant runs to 40 pages and has more international dishes on offer than in any other restaurant I have visited. This is the main evidence of the cosmopolitan lifestyle of the Manang Bhot. If you look on the walls of some of the lodges, you will see photographs of the proprietors in such places as Singapore, Bangkok and Delhi. They certainly travel around.
Their experience shows in their hotels, which fall into two main categories. First are the tourist class hotels which try to be as similar as possible to a standard tourist hotel. They are:
Annapurna Hotel
Manang Hotel
Tilicho House
Manang Shanti Guest House
Yak Lodge
Gangapurna Hotel
Hotel Bhujungale
Thorung La Hotel and Bar
In 1997 there were several similar lodges under construction. Soon there will be a glut of lodges in Manang. In 1997 it was the cheapest place to stay on the circuit.
There are also 3 smaller more interesting lodges for the trekker who wants to sit around a traditional hearth and doesn't mind inhaling woodsmoke and coughing up soot later. They are:
Ghyalchan Lodge
Glacier Hotel
Himal Chulli
The hotels are all well equipped with bathing facilities of various sorts, but there is so much dust in Manang that the minute you emerge from washing yourself, the dust clings to your still damp skin. Washing oneself is still something of a novelty in these parts.
7th Day
The view from the roof of the Ghyalchan Lodge, Manang . The mountains appear so close that you imagine that you could almost reach out and touch them. From left to right can be seen Annapurna II 7,937m , Annapurna IV 7,535m, the false peak of Annapurna III 7,555m (the false peak hides the true summit which you will see from Yak Kharka) Gangapurna 7454m with the North Gangapurna Glacier below it, The Grande Barriere and Tilicho Peak 7143m.



Altitude sickness - the reason why you should rest in Manang
Many trekkers are unfamiliar with the discomfort and potential hazards which accompany high altitude travel. You are now at 3,600 metres, well above the 1,800 metre threshold where the thinning of the air begins to be felt. The Annapurna circuit ascends to over 5,400 metres. Everyone, including even Sherpas, needs to take time to acclimatise to this altitude.
So the first piece of advice is to stay an extra night in Manang.
The second piece of advice is to attend the lectures held each afternoon by the Himalayan Rescue Association. These lectures cover all you need to know to ascend safely to 5,400 metres and back down again.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is the official name for the unpleasant effects of travel to high altitudes. The symptoms are new to many trekkers and can feel rather like flu. Many first time sufferers commonly mistake mild AMS with colds, flu, food poisoning and the effects of too little sleep. Even people who read this will make this mistake. It is human nature.
My third piece of advice is that if you feel any of the following symptoms your first assumption should be that you have mild AMS, and not the low altitude illness to which you would normally attribute the symptom. This is the approach adopted by experienced mountaineers who have been to high altitude many times. The symptoms are:
Headache
Loss of appetite
Dizziness
Nausea (feeling sick)
Actual vomiting (being sick)
Unsteady walking (Ataxia is the medical term)
If you recognise that you have any of these symptoms and that the cause is mild AMS, you are on the road to recovery already. You should wait, rest and drink plenty of water. Do not ascend further. If the symptoms are severe then descend. If you see someone with severe symptoms encourage them or help them to descend. One or two people die on the Annapurna Circuit of AMS each year.



Acclimatisation Activities in Manang
Eating and drinking alone will not help your acclimatisation. The principle behind acclimatisation is to 'climb high and sleep low'. Putting the principle to work means taking hikes in the surrounding hills. May I offer the following suggestions:
Praken Gompa
To the north above Manang is a cliff. Built into this is a tiny gompa. Lama Deshi is the resident Buddhist priest. Now many of the Manang Bhot say that he has become too commercialised. This is because he expects a donation from visitors. However, it is normal for the people of Nepal themselves to pay for a 'puja' ceremony. The good lama charges 100 rupees for a puja ceremony for a trekker. This is probably a lot more than the people of Nepal pay for a puja. But who is to say that Lama Deshi does not put the money to good use? The puja ceremony is an interesting experience for a trekker. I'd recommend it.
From the Thorung La Hotel and Bar walk a short distance westwards to a square with the biggest tree in the valley. Walk towards the public water tap, then towards the Himal Chuli Lodge. Walk up towards an old Tibetan house standing by itself on the near skyline. Follow the path to a water tank and water pipe, and then to a chorten and some yak herders huts (30 minutes). There is a beautiful view of Annapurna II 7,937m and Annapurna IV 7,525m from here. Zig-zag up the steep path towards Praken Gompa (50 minutes). Lama Deshi will be sure to see you coming up the path. He conducts Puja ceremonies in a tiny Buddhist shrine built into the rock. The rock roof is blackened by ancient fires predating the Buddhist gompa. Perhaps this site was occupied by other religions long before Buddhism came here. Lama Deshi collects photographs of his visitors. If you have a spare passport photograph, take it with you.



Ngawal Lake
3 hours and 1,100 metres of ascent.
This little lake is above Braga rather than Ngawal or Manang. It provides a good acclimatisation walk. Be well equipped. Take a Schneider map, a compass (and GPS if you have one) warm clothes, goretex jacket, a torch, food and water. If the weather is clear you will be rewarded with magnificent views of Gangapurna, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV and Annapurna II. If the weather changes, as is likely in the afternoons, you will be safely equipped.
Begin by walking down the track from Manang to Braga. Walk to eastern Braga on your right, and from the back of the village gain a rising path heading east (down the valley). This path is behind a hedge on the hillside. The hedge is clearly visible although the path behind it is hidden. Be sure not to damage any crops on the way. It is possible that this path is more easily reached from western Braga.
The path leads in about 30 minutes to some yak herder's huts on a plateau at about 3,750 metres altitude. From the back of the plateau another rising path leads left to the west in the direction of some prayer flags. Another plateau, this time dotted with ancient pine trees is reached at 4,000 meters. [28°39.32'N 84°03.63'E]. Continue west along a path to a ridge [28°39.60'N 83°03.53'E] at 4,280 metres. Now walk right towards a chorten and prayer flags on the skyline at 4,362 metres [28°39.67'N 84°03.53'E].
Continue directly upwards from here and a yak herders hut may be seen in a little valley between two ridges. From the hut follow a little valley up until below the shoulder of a ridge at 4,450 meters [28°40.03'N 84°03.86'E]. From here the shoulder looks like a summit.
Cross below the shoulder in a NW direction up to 4,700 metres [28°40.21'N 84°03.70'E] from where Ngawal lake may be seen below (3 hours 30 minutes).
I recommend descending the same path. It is however possible to descend down the stream bed (at least in October when it is dry). The path alternates on either side of the stream. Initially descend on the right of the stream traversing 150 metres to the right. Rejoin the stream. Lower down traverse left before rejoining the stream. Eventually from the stream bed a little ridge is visible. Climb 10 metres onto this and the fields between Braga and Manang will be visible. (In descent 1 hour 30 minutes).
Point 4695m
4 hours and 1,100 metres of ascent.
Point 4695 is a little peaklet on the ridge which leads up to Tarke Kang and Gangapurna. It is marked on the Schneider map. This ridge is relatively safe, yet permits a close encounter with the Himalayan giant Gangapurna and its northern glacier. It also provides a good view of the path up the valley to the Thorung La.
Follow the path to Khangsar out of Manang. Cross the Marsyandi. Do not follow the path to Khangsar, but instead climb the ridge to the right of the lake. (4 hours) Descend by the same route.
Pony Riding
Ponies may be hired in Manang for 1000 rupees a day, although this does seem a little expensive. In the past, ponies have only been used by trekkers who need them to descend in an emergency, or who are determined enough but not fit enough to cross the Thorung La. Recreational pony use therefore costs the same as ponies hired under duress. Perhaps prices will go down as recreational hire increases as it surely will. The Manang area is excellent for experienced riders.
Day 8
Manang
Yak Kharka
North
28°39.69'
28°43.11'
East
84°01.61'
83°58.59'
Altitude
3,606m
4,150m

Ascent
544m
Time
3 hours 40 minutes
Distance
9 kilometres



Walk west through old Manang following the signposts to the Thorung La. The Manang Bhot have sensibly located almost all of the lodges outside of old Manang where they themselves live. At a huge tree by a water tap turn right and then immediately left again. Pass through a gateway. At a junction turn left and then first right. Mail your post cards at the Manang post box which you pass on the way out.
Tengi (25 minutes) is really just a suburb of Manang. It has a traditional style lodge, the Ongma. There is a standing stone in the path which appears to be used for ritual offerings. There are beautiful views from here down the Marsyandi Valley. Pass a chorten (55 minutes). At a fork in the path (1 hour 25 minutes) take the upper fork. Five minutes further on pass a small tea house. Its a good idea to drink as much tea as you can even though the price begins to rise with the increasing altitude. At 3,930 metres there are two hotels [28°40'81"N 84°00'14"E] the:
Jullu West
Marsyandi
This is the site of a seasonal or partly abandoned village. All around are overgrown and abandoned terraced cultivation plots. Perhaps the locals who gave up the struggle to farm here now work in the tourist industry.
The path turns north east briefly and crosses a bridge. There is a good view up the valley to Chullu East 6,584m and Chullu West 6,419m. The tea shop here sells warm clothes for unprepared trekkers, but don't expect bargain prices.
Yak Kharka (3 hours 40 minutes) is at 4,150 metres. Yak Kharka is Tibetan for yak pasture. There are two hotels, the:
Hotel Nyeshang
Gangapurna
Its so cold up here that the hotels put charcoal burners under the tables, which are covered with thick blankets to keep the heat in. Whatever you think of the safety aspects of this, it certainly keeps you warm. I was very grateful for my down jacket which had been a luxury until now.
Yak Kharka is a great place. Good food served by the prettiest waitresses on the Annapurna circuit. The view of Annapurna III is just as good. Gangapurna is just visible to the right. Annapurna II and Annapurna IV may be seen in the distance. There are also views to the north west of the Muktinath Himal range and the Thorung La. Enjoy the view, as tomorrow evening it will be out of sight.
Day 9
Yak Kharka
Thorung Phedi
North
28°43.11'
28°46.35'
East
83°58.59'
83°58.60'
Altitude
4,150m
4,550m

Ascent
400m
Time
2 hours 40 minutes
Distance
8 kilometres

Leave the wonderful food of Yak Kharka behind. After 20 minutes you will arrive at a small chorten. The path crosses a broad yak pasture. This is a great place for yak watching, but don't get too close. Cross a bridge beneath Chullu. At the top of a small rise is a beautiful view of Gangapurna. Not surprisingly there is a tea house here from where one may admire the view. You can also see the head of the valley from where the Thorung La climbs up and over to Muktinath.
Pass the Churi Lattar hotel (30 minutes) [28°44.09'N 89°58.64'E] at 4,190 metres. Nearby you will also find the:
Jim Jimi Hotel
Julong White Hotel
Chullu West Hotel
There are some small plots of vegetables under cultivation just behind the hotels, which is remarkable for an altitude of over 4,000 metres. Lattar has excellent views of Gangapurna and Annapurna III. As you ascend, the mountains themselves seem to grow. This is due to the reduction of the foreshortening effect which is most strong in the high mountains of the Himalayas. The stream below you, the Kone Khola is just a trickle by comparison with the Marsyandi lower down.
Pass a beautiful green lakelet (1 hour 10 minutes) which lies below on the left. The view from here is magical. Conveniently there is a resting place for your rucksack by the path above.
On the opposite side of the Kone Khola is a waterfall (1 hour 30 minutes).
From October 1999, due to a landslide, an alternative path now continues along the east bank of the Kone Khola to the lower lodge of Thorung Phedi. At the lower lodge cross the river to climb up to Thorung Phedi Base Camp Lodge.
( The old route was to descend to a bridge over the clear waters of the Kone Khola. The path zig-zags steeply up the left bank. At the top of the climb reach a small tea house (2 hours) [28°45.56'N 83°58.28'E] at 4,470 metres. Continue along the path. )
Yaks graze here. They have right of way. If you meet one on the path, pass it on the uphill side of the path.
Thorung Phedi (2 hours 40 minutes) at 4,550 metres has two lodges. Staying at the higher one, Base Camp, means less ascent in the morning. Base Camp is much larger than the lower lodge.
(In 1998 a high camp was constructed an hour or so above Thorung Phedi. There have been persistent reports in 1999 of poor conditions here - such as kerosene in the water, poor ventilation, cramped accomodation and very cold conditions. The consensus seems to be that saving the extra hour the next morning is not worth it - my recommendation therefore is to stay in Thorung Phedi 'Base Camp'.)
Thorung Phedi is very reminiscent of the Devil's Kitchen area of Ogwen, North Wales, UK. Rock cliffs split by deep gorges rise all around. Vegetation is sparse. The magnificent views down the valley are now just a memory. From Thorung Phedi you cannot see any of the great mountains. The Thorung La pass climbs the even slope behind the 3 chortens next to the Base Camp Lodge.
Base Camp lodge, although quite large, can become very crowded. If you have mild AMS here, as many people do, it can seem unfriendly and intimidating. With the large numbers in the restaurant, order your food early.
The toilets are terrifying and must be the single greatest objective danger on the Annapurna Circuit. Be careful, especially if you are suffering from ataxia, not to fall in. I had nightmares about these latrines for several weeks afterwards. In 1997 many of the latrines were 'full'. Yuk.
Day 10
Thorung Phedi
Muktinath
North
28°46.35'
28°49.00'
East
83°58.60'
83°52.34'
Altitude
4,550m
3,800m

Ascent
750m
Descent
1,500m
Time
7 hours
Distance
13 kilometres

A 5am start is recommended to miss the high winds which begin at 11am at the top of the Thorung La. At 5am in October it is just getting light, so you should be able to manage without a torch. Start any earlier and you will be walking in the dark. Why get out of bed too early?
Plod slowly up the zig-zags until the first of many false cols is reached. The path then meanders though the screes (talus if you prefer American English) which look totally undisturbed, perhaps like the surface of another planet. The path is easy to follow in clear weather. In fresh snow and cloud it would be easy to lose your way.
A most welcome tea house (2 hours) is reached at the base of another climb. You may have to queue for a hot drink, such is the popularity of this establishment.
Follow the trail on through mounds of scree, past chortens and rocks worn smooth by porters resting loads on them. In the path may be the frozen hoof prints of Yaks which came over the previous day.
It is important to know your own pace and keep to it. Walk slowly and steadily and soon you will be pleasantly surprised by the chorten at the summit of the Thorung La col [28°47.38'N 83°56.57'E], which by my GPS measurement is at 5,320 metres (4 hours). Amazingly there is a tea house here, run by a young couple. Black tea is sold at black market rates, 35 rupees for a cup, compared with 7 rupees in the valley. ACAP would approve of their use of kerosene. The young couple stay here overnight. They are impressively well dressed in sheepskin coats. There is a small shelter attached to the house.
The snow peak of Khatung Khang 6,481m just to the south looks rather like the Alphubel in Switzerland and looks as easy to climb. Do not attempt it though.
To descend, take the right hand of the two paths leading down from the col, and descend the endless zig-zags down the broadening slope. Even if you have reached the top of the col without an altitude headache, many people find that they get one when they descend. The descent is very steep and can be very tiring. Avoid the tendency to doze off when you are resting. Fantastic views may be had of the ice pyramid of Dhauligiri 8,167 metres to the south west.
A level platform with a ruined building (5 hours) is a good place for a rest at 4,650 metres. An hour below is a tea house at 4,200 metres (6 hours). This tea house has accommodation. Muktinath (7 hours) is another hour below. If you don't have the energy to stop off at the temples, there will be time tomorrow morning. Check in at the police post then look for a hotel to crash in. There are 12 to choose from. As you will probably be completely knackered, my advice is to stop at the first one you come to.
The Muktinath temple complex is a predominantly Buddhist site. In 1956 David Snellgrove listed 5 Buddhist temples at Muktinath, there are now only 4. It appears that the 'Place of Mind Perfection has been superseded by the temple of Shiva. This reflects the hinduisation of this Buddhist region. The schools teach the Nepali language where previously Tibetan was spoken. The locals are adopting Hindu surnames. Even the use of kerosene stoves is culturally Hindu.
The temples of Muktinath are within a walled enclosure.
The crossing of the Thorung La pass.
The view before the first tea shoppe, showing the eerie off-planet look of the path to the Thorung La. The mountain on the left is Khatung Khang 6,481m.

The first tea shoppe. There's quite a queue here. Don't waste time waiting for a cup of tea, just because it's there.
The crest of the Thorung La. The cairn in the centre of the picture marks the high point at 5,300m according to my GPS readings. The official height is a little higher at 5,400m. The building on the left is the tea shop, with Khatung Kang 6,481m behind.
A close up of the Thorung La 'summit' cairn, with the author on the right. Those are Buddhist prayer flags n the background.
The author,(or should I say content provider?) Ian Johnson on the right with his porter guide Kumba Tamang. Kumba lives in Besisahar. I would recommend his guiding.
Khatung Kang 6,481m which in my opinion looks remarkably like the Alphubel in Switzerland.
The view from the crest of the Thorung La in the Muktinath direction.







1
Gompa Samba This is a Buddhist temple whose name in the Tibetan language means 'first monastery'.
2
Temple of Shiva
Shiva is the destroyer and regenerator god of the Hindu religion. The Shiva temple is surrounded by four smaller temples. Vishnu, whose temple is on the left is the protector of the universe and all creatures within it. Krishna is an incarnation of Vishnu. He was an earthly prince. Rama is another incarnation of Vishnu, this time as a cowherd and charioteer. Ganesh is the elephant headed god. Ganesh is the son of Shiva and the goddess of plenty, Annapurna.
3
Brahmin's House
The priest in charge of the Shiva temple lives here.
4
Lake
Behind the Shiva temple is a square lake which may have been used for ritual bathing in the past.
5
Jomo House
The Jomo house is the home of the Buddhist nuns of Muktinath.
6
Vishnu Temple
The Vishnu temple with its 108 water spouts is a recent Hindu addition to an ancient Buddhist site. The temple is built just below the source of the sacred spring, which provides water for the ritual bathing of Hindu pilgrims. As a consequence this Hindu temple is situated adjacent to the Buddhist jomo house. The Buddhist nuns have the right to collect money in the Hindu temple. Photography is not welcomed in the Hindu temple. The images in the temple are Vishnu (centre), Laxmi the goddess of wealth (right) and 'Sosoti' on the left. After making a donation you may walk around the temple, perhaps ringing one of the magnificent bronze bells. Hindu pilgrims must shower under the 108 waterspouts and bathe in the two pools in front of the temple. It must be rather chilly.
7
Natsin Gompa
This is the Sgar Dong-Pa of David Snellgrove's book, Himalayan Pilgrimage. Sgar Dong-Pa means the temple of the encampment. There is a huge prayer wheel. The central large figure of the statues is Rin-Chen the Jewel Born Buddha. Rin-Chen holds a dorje in his hand. A dorje is an aid to meditation, symbolically it represents the destruction of ignorance. Physically it is a diamond or a thunderbolt. On the far left is the personage we in the west identify as Guatma Buddha. To the right is Garuda. Garuda is a bird man. He is both a Hindu god and a Buddhist vehicle. On the far right is Nathnal who is probably a local deity.
8
Sacred Spring
The spring is particularly holy to Hindus as may be seen by the close proximity of the two Hindu temples. The many Hindu pilgrims take a bottle of water from here home for their friends. Its probably safe to drink without treatment. Don't sue me if you get dysentery. After all the, overflowing latrines of Thorung Phedi are 600 metres higher and only 7 kilometres away.
9
Chorten Garden
The chorten garden comprises chortens built by first time pilgrims. Some as you can see are just small piles of stones, others are more elaborate.
10
Jollo Muki Gompa
Jollo Muki Gompa, or fire and water gompa is also known as Nying-ma pa. Before you go in, you can see the water which flows through the temple pouring through a cow's head water spout below the temple. Inside the magical natural gas flame may be seen behind a grill on the right. This is the temple everyone wants to see.

Day 11
Muktinath
Kagbeni
North
28°49.00'
28°50.04'
East
83°52.34'
83°47.19'
Altitude
3,800m
2,776m

Descent
1,024m
Time
2 hours 15 minutes
Distance
10 kilometres


It's all downhill to Kagbeni. Follow the path out of Muktinath. About 5 minutes below the village there is a 10 metre vertical cliff to the right of the path. A ledge polished by the bare feet of children playing games of 'dare' rises up this cliff face from ground level. The higher up the rising ledge, the less polished it is.
In the distance may be seen the village of Jharkot. The large red building at the end of the ridge on which Jharkot is perched is a new college for lamas, built with Japanese assistance. The large ruined building is said to be the old monastery, but looks more like a fort. The river below is the Jhong Khola. In the cliffs on its opposite bank may be seen the first of many ancient man-made caves.
After 10 minutes pass through a beautiful wooded area criss-crossed by streams. The Jharkot Guest House is beyond a shallow lake. There are 3 other hotels in Jharkot:
New Plaza
Sonam
Himali
As you leave Jharkot pass through fields. In October you will see the people gathering in the crops. The village of Khinga (55 minutes) has two hotels: the Yak Hotel and the Khinga Hotel.
Past the village the path drops steeply across the arid slope for one kilometre and then rises slightly. Below in the gorge, is the abandoned village of Myabruk. Above the village is an ancient cave settlement thought to be about 2,700 years old. The caves are connected by internal staircases, some habitations are up to 9 stories high. Although sometimes used nowadays by lamas for religious retreats, the caves were originally the homes of the ancient Mustang ancestors. Excavations show that they were a highly developed culture. The excavations in this region of Lower Mustang are being carried out by the 'Nepal-German Project on High Mountain Archaeology' This is headed by Dr Dieter Schub of the Caulfeld Meiszahl Institute.
Pass a ruined building at [28°49.47'N 83°48.58'E] at 3,327 metres. Just after this building the path forks. Take the right hand path (1 hour 45 minutes). The path then drops steeply. At another fork (1 hour 55 minutes) take the left hand fork. Pass bushes on which pilgrims coming up the valley have left red, white and yellow threads as ritual offerings upon first seeing holy Muktinath. Kagbeni and its fields may now be seen below.
Cross an irrigation canal (2 hours 10 minutes) and five minutes later reach Kagbeni ( 2 hours 15 minutes).
Kagbeni is a real Mustang town on a river confluence. Sites such as this are sacred in the oriental world. The town is dominated by its castle, from where a king used to reign. The Red House Hotel has a close up view of the castle. This same hotel has some fine wall paintings and even has its own temple. The hotel has a good view of Nilgiri North. There are 9 other good hotels in Kagbeni.





The Kagbeni Gompa may be visited for a 100 rupee fee. Tickets may be bought at the hotels. There you will be shown around by a monk. Take your own torch if you want to see the fine art work as it is very dark inside the gompa. The wall paintings are finely executed. There are 5 statues inside the main room of the Gompa. In the centre is Sakyamuni or Guatma Buddha who began the Buddhist faith. The statue to the right of Sakyamunu is the legendary Padma Samba, also known as the Lotus-Born Buddha, who took the Buddhist faith to Tibet during the Great Liberation.
On the pillars in the main room are some ceremonial masks. Just outside on the left is a painting in the 'St Jerome' style. On the next floor is a locked dimly lit room with some wonderful Buddhist bronzes. From the roof is a magnificent view up and down the Kali Gandaki. The Kali Gandaki is a broad valley with a river bed far larger than the river itself. Every afternoon a strong gusty wind blows down this valley making walking in the afternoon unpleasant. Be sure to start early each day.
On the northern limit of Kagbeni you will find the ACAP office by a huge 'stop' sign. This is the northern limit of your standard Annapurna region trekking permit. To the north the landscape of Lo looks arid and untouched, and free of culture spoiling tourist hotels.
Jharkot
Jharkot from Muktinath. In the distance the path down to Kagbeni may be seen.
Day 12
Kagbeni
Marpha
North
28°50.04'
28°44.88'
East
83°47.19'
83°41.40'
Altitude
2,776m
2,598m

Ascent
178m
Time
3 hours 25 minutes
Distance
16 kilometres

Leave the town and walk down the left bank of the Kali Gandaki. After about 2 kilometres the path joins the direct route from Muktinath (35 minutes) There are 4 hotels here:
Hilton
Munal
Old Kagbeni
Holiday Inn
although there is not a village on the site. Pass the Pandha Khola plantation (55 minutes) which is situated in the Pandha Khola valley on the left. This plantation is an ACAP reafforestation project. A little way up the Pandha Khola valley is the village of Lubra. Lubra is a centre of the Bon-Po religion which flourished in Tibet before the arrival of Buddhism in the 8th century. The Puntsholing Bon-Po Gompa may be seen here. Cross the Pandha Khola itself by a small plank bridge. ( 1 hour 5 minutes). In another 15 minutes Jomosom is visible in the distance. Remarkably there are sand dunes (1 hour 35 minutes) along the bank of the Kali Gandaki.
Jomosom (1 hour 55 minutes) is the administrative capital of the Manang district. Thangmigchen, the Tibetan warlord gave Jomosom its name when he built a fort called Dzongsampa on the site. Nowadays it has more useful facilities including an airport (closed for rebuilding from May 1st 2000 until July 31st 2001), a branch of the Nepal Bank, a money changer, the eco-museum, and 20 hotels of a very high standard. By Annapurna Circuit standards the shopping is very good here. In November 1999 an Internet cafe was seen in Jomsom!
Leave the delights of Jomosom behind. The eco-museum is to be found on the right just outside the town. The Syang Khola (2 hours 15 minutes) joins the Kali Gandaki from the north. There are numerous small plank bridges to be crossed over the Syang Khola. Follow the locals if you are not sure of the way.
Syang ( 2 hours 40 minutes) is a Thakali village. According to Harka Gurung, in his excellent book 'Vignettes of Nepal', Syang is a very ancient village. The Japanese ethno-geographer Juro Kawakita considers that the Syang culture and religion are relics of an ancient pre-buddhist society. The evidence for this includes primitive shrines under cypress trees, lulu cattle (whatever they are), distinctive graveyards and some unusual linguistic features.
There is one hotel in Syang, the Hotel Pratichha and Admiral Benbow Inn. There is also a shoe repair shop in Syang. Syang ends with a 9 wheel prayer wall and the fields below.
The path forks ( 3 hours 10 minutes) and ascends. 5 minutes later the path levels out and the village of Marpha comes into view. The very smart Hotel Transhimalaya lies just before Marpha.



Marpha ( 3 hours 25 minutes) has some of the best food on the Annapurna Circuit. This is the main reason to stay here. None of the big 8,000 metre peaks may be seen from here. The view is only of Nilgiri 7,061m. Marpha is a model of municipal efficiency. It has a sewerage system running the length of the main street. Both the street and sewer are paved over and swept clean. The houses are white washed and many old architectural features, such as carved wooden windows remain along the mainstreet. Marpha gives an impression of what Kathmandu must once have been like. Western style concrete construction is only just beginning to spoil Marpha.
A recent development is a flight of stairs from the mainstreet up to the gompa which has had a large extension built on the front. Marpha has a library open from 5pm to 7pm. There are shops in the village. Above the village an enormous chorten painted onto a cliff may be reached from a path behind the gompa. There is a good view of the regulation stacks of firewood on the house roofs from here. There is a certain conformity about Marpha. All the houses look alike. They are all painted the same colour. They all have the same border of firewood on the roof. If Marpha had trains they would run on time.



Marpha's reputation for food is based on its meat dishes. It is the first place on the Circuit where chicken is reliably available. Indeed, the lodge owners discourage trekkers from eating dhal bhat in order to get the higher margin on chicken. Deserts and cake are good here. The cats are the best fed in the whole of Manang and Mustang. Cats don't grow fat eating dhal bhat.
Wake up in the morning to the clip clop of ponies hooves, the crowing of the cock and the mewing of the cats. Its a great place to stay.
Marpha is an example of a migrated village. The original settlement was to the north by the hillside fields. It migrated down the valley to take advantage of the trade route. Marpha is part of the Panchgaon region of five villages, which begins at Jomosom.
Marpha
This is a view of Marpha taken one evening during October 1997.
A wooden window in Marpha
An example of a wooden window on the mainstreet of Marpha village. See it before the double glazing salesmen arrive.
Day 13
Marpha
Kalopani
North
28°44.88'
28°38.24'
East
83°41.40'
83°36.19'
Altitude
2,598m
2,609m

Ascent
11m
Time
4 hours
Distance
19 kilometres

The Shree Nilgiri distillery lies about 5 minutes south of Marpha. Walk past the apple orchards, the 'vegetable seed conditioning and test centre' and then the Marpha distillery. The apricot brandy from Marpha is very good. Its well worth taking a bottle to Tatopani, where most trekkers have a rest day.
Cross a bridge over a stream (15 minutes). Pass orchards. Remain on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki river. Do not cross the suspension bridge. (20 minutes). Pass by another suspension bridge (30 minutes) which leads to the village of Chhairgaon, do not cross this bridge either.
After a grove of pine trees (45 minutes) the path descends (55 minutes) to the river by a spring. Continue along the gravel bed of the river, passing the village of Chimgaon on the opposite bank (1 hour). Tukuche (1 hour 20 minutes) is a substantial village, although only a shadow of its former self since the decline of the trade route with Tibet. Tukuche or 'Dhu-Tse' as it is known in Tibetan means 'fertile plain'. The plain nowadays is used as a football pitch. Tukuche is 70% buddhist and 30% Hindu and has four Buddhist temples:
Quapar Gompa
Gompa Samba
Maha Kali Gompa
Tukuche Gompa
As Maha Kali is a Hindu goddess of the river, this temple has clearly been hinduised, following the recent trend at Muktinath.
Tukuche has a distillery. At the turn of the century it was a house where Ekai Kawagotchi, the legendary Japanese Buddhist priest, scholar, doctor and traveller enjoyed hospitality here during his covert trip to Tibet in 1899.
Tukuche has a post office. Tukuche may be left by one of two roads. The higher road remains on the west bank of the Kali Gandaki. The lower one crosses and recrosses the Kali Gandaki. The lower path is impassable during the monsoon. If in doubt take the higher road on the right, especially if the water is high. If there are local Nepalis around, follow them.
Tukuche Peak 6,920m may be seen on the right 10 minutes from Tukuche, although from here the view is greatly foreshortened. Nilgiri Central 6,940m and Nilgiri South 6,839m may be seen on the left.




The path is cut into the cliff above the stream (2 hours) and then passes a plantation which protects Khobang (2 hours 5 minutes) from flood water. There is a health post in Khobang. Khobang marks the southern end of the Thakali Panchgoan region. It is the lower limit of Tibetan influence. Khobang means 'Bottom Temple' in Tibetan. The path forks (2 hours 15 minutes) just outside Khobang. Take the left fork.
Larjung (2 hours 20 minutes) is just past Khobang. From here there is a good view of Nilgiri. From Larjung it is possible to walk up to the Dhauligiri Ice Fall. The two lodges in Larjung, the Larjung Lodge, and the Dhauligiri Lodge are built around sunny inner courtyards to provide shelter from the afternoon wind. Just beyond Larjung, the blustery afternoon wind which blows down the Kali Gandaki every afternoon is no longer felt. It is posible to visit Padmasampa's cave from Larjung.
Take the upper route out of Larjung, on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. Cross the gravel of the broad Lang Khola at Sokung (2 hours 30 minutes). Again take the upper path. At a suspension bridge [28°39.95'N 83°36.09'E] cross over the Kali Gandaki to the left bank. 30 metres just beyond the bridge the adventurous can take a short cut down an extremely steep narrow path on the right. Be careful as there is a steep drop. Follow the path down the gravel and walk to the left through a plantation of trees to some buildings.
At Koketani (2 hours 50minutes) the scenery begins to change. Just a few metres further are the first bamboo, deciduous trees and pitched roofs. Cross the suspension bridge (3 hours 45 minutes) to the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. Cross the Seto Khola river to reach Kalopani (4 hours).
Kalopani is a training centre for lodge managers and cooks, but weirdly the lodge I stayed in cooked the worst food on the entire Annapurna Circuit. As a compensation, the view from Kalopani is magnificent. The following peaks may be seen from here:
Dhauligiri 8,167m
Tukuche Peak 6,920m
Nilgiri Central 6,940m
Nilgiri South 6,839m
Annapurna I 8,091m
Baraha Shikhar 7,647m
Be sure to spend a night here.
Day 14
Kalopani
Tatopani
North
28°38.24'
28°29.83'
East
83°36.19'
83°39.00'
Altitude
2,609m
1,200m

Descent
1,409m
Time
6 hours
Distance
24 kilometres

There is a police post at the southern end of Kalopani. Valuable time may be saved by checking out the previous night. At 24 kilometres today's walk is the longest on the itinerary, including a descent of 1,400 metres, only slightly less than the descent from the Thorung La to Muktinath. It's a long day so set out early.
Walk down the path on the right hand bank of the Kali Gandaki to Ghasa (1 hour 30 minutes) cross a bridge (2 hours) to the village of Tal Bagar on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki. Further along the path cross another bridge (3 hours) back to the right bank of the Kali Gandaki.
The village of Dana (3 hours 15 minutes) became a customs post following the establishment of the Nepalese state in 1786. Until the 1930s the government taxed the salt trade which passed through here on its way south to Nepal from Tibet. The Miristi Khola joins the Kali Gandaki from the north here. The Miristi Khola flows from the valley north of Annapurna I in which the original 1950 French Annapurna Base Camp was located. The site in the Annapurna Sanctuary now popularly known as Annapurna Base Camp is the site of the 1970 British Expedition base camp.
Tatopani (4 hours 30 minutes) is the resort village of the Annapurna Circuit. Hot springs, good food, shops, even book shops make it a recommended village for a rest day. There are several good lodges here. The Namaste Lodge, Dhauligiri Lodge and the Trekker's Lodge have easy access to the hot springs. English Trekkers may find that they can order butter chicken in the lodges' restaurants, which is almost, but not quite, the same as chicken tikka massala.
There are no mountain views from Tatopani, but there are still great views to be had further along the circuit at Ghorepani.
Day 15
Tatopani
Ghorepani
North
28°29.83'
28°24.17'
East
83°39.00'
83°42.25'
Altitude
1,200m
2,874m

Ascent
1,674m
Time
6 hours
Distance
15 kilometres

About 10 minutes south of Tatopani, the path crosses a bridge over the Kali Gandaki to its left bank and then crosses another bridge over its tributary the Ghar Khola. Just after this bridge turn steeply uphill just to the left of a building. It looks like a path into the owner's back garden.
Slog up the hill steeply for 300 metres until you reach the crest of the ridge. The view up the Ghar Khola valley towards Ghorepani is dramatically revealed here. Stop here at the tea house for a rest and to admire the view (50 minutes). Climb less steeply for another 500 metres to Sikha (3 hours 30 minutes). The path is paved most of the way with what appears to be marble. Phalante (4 hours 20 minutes) is mentioned in the origin myth of the Thakali people. The four Thakali ancestors turned back here when they were unable to find their way to the Ghorepani pass. They were probably discouraged by the never ending ascent.
Chitre ( 4 hours 50 minutes) is a little further on. Here the path forks. Take the right hand uphill fork by a building. From here it is a 600 metre steady uphill ascent through the endless rhododendron forest past the electricity pylons to Ghorepani. Ghorepani village (6 hours) is in the col of the Ghorepani pass. There is an abundant choice of hotels. There is a police post and ACAP visitors room.
The view from Ghorepani and Poon Hill above is one of the best on the circuit. The Himalayan chain between Dhauligiri and Manaslu can be clearly seen on a fine day. Many people ascend Poon Hill in the morning before to get a good view of the mountains. However the view of Machhupuchhare is disappointing in the morning as the sun rises behind it. The view of Dhaulagiri with the rising sun shining on it is magnificent. On a clear evening, the view of Machhupuchhare from here would be magnificent.
Day 16b
Ghorepani
Ghandruk
North
28°24.17'
28°22.55'
East
83°42.25'
83°48.58'
Altitude
2,874m
1,943m

Ascent
500m
Time
4 hours 30 minutes
Distance
14 kilometres
Before leaving Ghorepani don't forget to visit the police post. From the saddle of the col, walk due east (with the sun in front of you in the morning) up the ridge until you reach another village on a col (estimate - 1 hour 15 minutes). Descend from the col, following a path by a stream, dropping more steeply to the valley below. (estimate - 2 hours) Climb steeply up the hill to Tadapani (estimate - 2 hours 30 minutes). Take the right hand easterly fork out of Tadapani to Ghandruk (estimate - 4 hours 30 minutes) . There are abundant hotels in Ghandruk. There is a magnificent view up the valley to Machhupuchhare and the Annapurna Sanctuary.
N.B. This is the one path the author has not actually walked. The walking times were estimated using a version of Naismith's rule. The rule assumes that a 'standard' trekker travels at 5 kilometres per hour plus half an hour per 300 metres of ascent
Day 17
Ghandruk
Chomrong
North
28°22.55'
28°55.11'
East
83°48.58'
83°49.23'
Altitude
1,943m
2,100m

Ascent
1,050m
Descent
900m
Time
5 hours
Distance
9 kilometres

Ghandruk is the Gurung capital. The village has grown around the T-junction where the path from Ghorepani meets the bath between Chomrong and Birethanti. Near this junction is the 'Open Guest House' with a shop to its right. Continue along the path (bearing 285°) keeping the view of Hiunchulli on your right. Pass the path to Ghorepani on the left. About 30 metres past the T-junction, the path crosses a stream and turns to the right. Walk past a water tap on your left, and further on cross another stream. 150 metres further on is the AMA carpet shop. The path now leads downhill through a gateway embellished with prayer wheels. Spin them clockwise with your right hand. Ghandruk really needs an AtoZ street guide (and a Gregory's for the Aussies).
Walk down the green 'hollow lane' to reach a large suspension bridge (10 minutes). Follow the broad path from here to Komrong ( 1 hour) [28° 23. 76'N 83° 48.00'E] 2255m situated on the edge of a valley. From Komrong the path descends steeply to Kyumnu ( 1 hour 30 minutes) [28° 24.19'N 83° 47. 83'E] 1,800m, in the base of the valley, on the far side of the stream. Climb up the hill on the other side of the valley to Kaji Lodge ( 2 hours 50 minutes) [28° 24.68'N 83° 48.21'E] 2040m
Contour more easily around the hillside on a broad path to reach Upper Chomrong (3 hours 50 minutes). The views from here are of Machhupuchhare, Hiunchulli and Annapurna South
Day 18
Chomrong
Deurali
North
28°55.11'
28°29.81'
East
83°49.23'
83°54.01'
Altitude
2,100m
3,200m

Ascent
1,100m
Time
6 hours 20 minutes
Distance
13 kilometres

Leave Upper Chomrong and walk down the stone stairs leading down the steep hill to the actual village of Chomrong. Pass the shop and the Captain's Lodge. The Captain speaks excellent English and is the headman of the village.
At the Chomrong Khola (20 minutes) cross the bridge, then begin to ascend. Pass through a small village (40 minutes) and then a bamboo forest (45 minutes) just before the little village of Bahunawa (50 minutes) [28°25.68'N 83°49.93'E] 2149 metres . In 1997 there was a fancy new hotel under construction here.
Sinawa (1 hour 35 minutes) [28°26.04'N 83°50.32'E] 2360 metres is perched 260 metres above Ghandruk which may be easily seen in the distance from this magnificent position. There are 4 hotels in Sinawa (2 hours 40 minutes). In Khuldi Ghar [28°27.40'N 83°51.56'E] there is an ACAP Post. The only other facility is a rubbish pit. The ACAP officers must get very bored here in the evenings.
Continue steeply up and then steeply down to Bamboo ( 3 hours 10 minutes) [28°27.40'N 83°51.56'E] 2190 metres where there are 3 lodges. Above Bamboo the path is quite rough. Tangled moss covered tree roots cross the path. Cross the Bamboo Khola using 2 bridges ( 3 hours 35 minutes) and further along cross another bridge (4 hours 10 minutes) to reach Dovan (4 hours 15 minutes) [28°28.18'N 83°52.39'E] 2600 metres.
Cross a stream to reach a ruined building, [28°28.52'N 83°52.85'E] presumably a lodge destroyed by an avalanche from Hiunchulli above on the left. The path here is on the edge of a steep drop down to the Modi Khola. As the ACAP safety signs say, 'Beautiful but Dangerous'. If you are trekking alone, be particularly careful in this area.
The path enters a region of wild primeval rhododendron forest. The trees are left untouched here for a God dwells in the forest hereabouts. By a waterfall is a modest shrine, the Shee Pozenhem Baraha temple. Offerings are left here by devotees for the local god. If only there were more local gods as powerful as this one, more of Nepal's natural beauty would remain unspoilt along the Annapurna Circuit.
There is a deep gorge to the right here. Excuse me if I sound like you mother, but do be careful here.
Reach Himalaya [28°29.25'N 83°53.39'E] 3245 metres, after a steep ascent (5 hours 20 minutes). Continue steeply up the valley climbing some stone stairs (5 hours 40 minutes). The path levels off just before Hinko Cave. (6 hours). The stone platforms in Hinko Cave are all that remains of a demolished lodge. Before the lodge was there, mountaineering expeditions camped here. Perhaps before that, this was a home for yeti.
Just a little further on Deurali may be seen in the distance. Gratefully arrive at Deurali (6 hours 20 minutes). It has been a long day, but well worth it. There are 4 small lodges here.
Day 19
Deurali
Annapurna Base Camp
North
28°29.81'
28°31.84'
East
83°54.01'
83°52.84'
Altitude
3,200m
4,157m

Ascent
943m
Time
4 hours 15 minutes
Distance
7 kilometres

Above Deurali are magnificent (although foreshortened) views of the snowfield on the west face of Machhapuchhare 6,309m. The view (25 minutes) is through a hanging valley on your left. Opposite is a waterfall whose source is the unseen snow of Hiunchulli 6,441m above. Although the view is good here, it is a dangerous place to spend much time. The ground is littered with avalanche debris. In particular do not wait below the waterfall.
A little further on is a ruined village (35 minutes) presumably flattened by a snow avalanche. The area around the village is fairly level and relatively (!) safe. The evidence for this are the numerous rounded and waterworn rocks, and the absence of shattered fallen rock.
The lateral moraines (1 hour 35 minutes) topped by trees are beautiful and provide cover for large mammals. Yes, there really could be a yeti eating his or her breakfast just over the moraine and you'd never know.
Pass through the gates of the sanctuary, two indistinct rock pillars from where the sanctuary opens out. At Machhupuchhare Base Camp [28°31.42'N 83°54.60'E] 3,700 metres, the first guest house is the Cozy Guest House. The view from here includes Machhupuchhare and Gangapurna. Machhupuchhare Base Camp proper (2 hours) lies a little higher, where there are 3 more guest houses on more level ground:
Gurung Co-operative Guest House
Fish Tail Lodge
Sankhar Guest House
The best view of Machhupuchhare is from the Gurung Co-operative Guest House, but from here you cannot see Gangapurna! You pay your money and take your choice.
Day 5 Sanctuary route
Warning: If you are unacclimatised and have not already done the Annapurna Circuit you should stop at Machhupuchhare Base Camp for the night. Annapurna Base Camp is 450 metres higher. You have already ascended 500 metres and to ascend another 450 metres in one day would risk AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness).
Follow the path above Machhupuchhare Base Camp. Annapurna III comes into view behind and to your right (2 hours 30 minutes) on a bearing of 58°.
Pass cairns and walls (3 hours 15 minutes). From here onwards the view gradually improves, revealing Hiunchulli with Annapurna South 7,219m straight ahead. After arriving at Annapurna Base Camp (4 hours 15 minutes), should the skies be clear, Annapurna itself may be seen on the right.




There are 4 lodges here. Accommodation can be short here. People used to having a room to themselves may have to share. Anyhow, its so cold here that 2 people sharing a room maybe a little warmer.
Annapurna Base Camp is the site of the 1970 British Annapurna Expedition. The first ascent of Annapurna, made by the French Expedition in 1950 lies 10 kilometres to the north west (as the crow flies) on the other side of Annapurna in the Miristi Khola valley.
The wild beauty of the Annapurna Sanctuary which the British expedition entered in 1970 has since been invaded by property developers. What lies in the future one can only speculate, and no doubt many people will. Whatever happens, it will never be the same again. Unless there is some control this area could see 4 star hotels within 20 years. The existing lodges have made the area more accessible to trekkers. Perhaps though, they have driven out the yeti which the 1970 expedition encountered. If the lodges and trekkers don't drive them out, the fixed price menu up here will.
Large mammals such as deer, foxes, goats and even the fabled snow leopard may be seen here, particularly after a snowfall, when they are more conspicuous. There is a great deal of wildlife still here. The impact of trekking is thankfully confined to a tiny area of the sanctuary.
Be sure to spend the night at Annapurna Base Camp to get the sensational views the next morning. Get up to see the early morning sun on the south face of Annapurna I. In the evening, Machhupuchhare is lit quite beautifully by the setting sun.
Day 20
Annapurna Base Camp
Sinawa
North
28°31.84'
28°26.08'
East
83°52.84'
83°50.41'
Altitude
4,157m
2,352m

Ascent
1,805m
Time
5 hours 20 minutes
Distance
17 kilometres

After absorbing the unparalleled view, reluctantly head down to Machhupuchhare Base Camp. You may be rewarded with some signs of animal life. Pass the cairns (30 minutes) and reach Machhupuchhare Base Camp. (55 minutes). Below Machhupuchhare Base Camp is a flat meandering section of the river (1 hour 40 minutes), just prior to the deserted houses. The water worn boulders in the river at this point are quite attractive as the revealed strata are of contrasting colours.
Were it not for the danger from avalanche, this must have been a most inspiring place to live (1 hour 50 minutes). The overhanging cliff on the right is rather ominous. The wild wood on the left looks untouched, perhaps it is protected by a god.
Stone stairs (2 hours) lead up and back to Deurali (2 hours 15 minutes). Continue down to Hinko Cave (2 hours 30 minutes) and then to Himalaya (2 hours 55 minutes). On the way down it is likely that you will have more energy to spare to admire the amazing Tolkien-esque wood on the left bank.
Pass back through the land of the powerful god (3 hours 5 minutes). Maybe Friends of the Earth could adopt him as a patron saint. The path at this point runs with water and resembles a stream bed.
Cross a real stream [28°28.52'N 83°52.85'E] 2038 metres, then a ruined building and another stream (3 hours 20 minutes). Pass another ruined building ( 3 hours 25 minutes) and cross a small bridge over a stream with waterworn bedrock exposed in its bed. Cross another bridge (3 hours 30 minutes) by a waterfall and then enter Dovan ( 3 hours 35 minutes) [28°28.18'N 83°52.39'E] 2600 metres. Everything above Dovan has to be carried up by porter rather than on packhorse. Consequently Dovan and everything below it is less expensive than the lodges above. Continue down to Bamboo ( 4 hours 20 minutes) [28°27.40'N 83°51.56'E] 2190 metres.
Walk steeply uphill ( 4 hours 30 minutes) to the police check post ( 4 hours 45 minutes) Don't forget to stop and sign out. If you don't, when they balance the books, they will think you are still in the sanctuary playing cards with the yeti. But enough of the yeti, if he exists, you must say goodbye.
After a house (4 hours 40 minutes) the path takes an exciting route along some turf growing out of horizontal fissures in the ancient glacier ground inclined rock slabs. Don't slip! Leaving the slabs, continue uphill (4 hours 55 minutes) until you reach Sinawa ( 5 hours 20 minutes) at 2352 metres.



From Sinawa there are grand views south down the valley. One can see far into the distance, past the villages of Nayapol, Ghandruk, Chomrong. You can even see the steam rising from the hot springs at Jinnu. To the north, Annapurna South, Annapurna III, Gangharchulli 6,248m and of course, Machhupuchhare may be seen. The view is superior to that at Chomrong, and for this reason I would recommend staying overnight at Sinawa. Sinawa is just inside the special management zone which extends up the valley to Deurali. Consequently it is more expensive to stay here than in Chomrong. Just thought I should warn you.
When I stayed in the Kayi Lodge, the rooms were full, so I slept in the dining room. This room has a magnificent panoramic view from its windows. During the night I awoke and noticed a bright light in the distance shining at my feet. I realised I was looking down at the planet Venus. Being both a dining room by day and an observatory by night, the Kayi Lodge dining room cannot be recommended highly enough, be it for either dining, sleeping or astronomy.
Day 21
Sinawa
Ghandruk
North
28°26.08'
28°22.55'
East
83°50.41'
83°48.58'
Altitude
2,352m
1,943m

Ascent
1,000m
Descent
1,400m
Time
5 hours 30 minutes
Distance
10 kilometres

Walk down the hill from Sinawa towards Chomrong. At the bottom of the hill cross the Chomrong Khola by an old suspension bridge (35 minutes) [28°26.41'N 83°50.10'E] 2100 metres, then a smaller stream by a stone bridge. At the Captain's Lodge (50 minutes), I would recommend stopping for a cup of his excellent Darjeeling tea which is the best tea on the circuit.
Plod up the hill to Upper Chomrong (1 hour 10 minutes). [28°25.1'N 83°49.33'E] 2040 metres. Walk along the path as it contours around the hillside to reach Kaji Lodge (1 hour 45 minutes) [28°24.68'N 83°48.21'E] 1800 metres.
From Kaji Lodge, the path descends very steeply to Kyumnu ( 2 hours 5 minutes) [28°24.19'N 83°47.83'E] 1800 metres. Cross the Kyumnu Khola (2 hours 15 minutes) to begin the ascent up the other side of the valley. On the ridge at the top of this hill is Komrong ( 3 hours 10 minutes) [28°23.76'N 83°48.00.E] 2255 metres. Have a bottle of Coke. Its far cheaper here as Komrong is outside the 'special management' zone.
Ghandruk may be seen in the distance. Follow the broad path gently down the hill. Cross a large suspension bridge (3 hours 50 minutes). Enter Ghandruk (4 hours) by a hollow lane surrounded by green mossy tree trunks and roots. This must be a very ancient path.
Ghandruk must be the rakshi capital of the Himalayas, if the huge acreage of millet planted around the village is any indication. In the Gurung museum in the village is a D-I-Y guide to rakshi making which is reproduced here. Of course I am not suggesting you should have a go, but the curious may like to try. Remember that distilling strong liquor may attract the interest of the excise authorities in your home country. It will be certain to attract your friends.
As you can see, Ghandruk is a most impressive village with excellent food and other advanced facilities. Do consult the map which shows where to obtain the best views in the village.
Rakshi
Rakshi is the distilled alcoholic drink of Nepal. It's made from millet. You can see millet growing in the fields around Ghandruk. As you can see from the prosperity of Ghandruk, rakshi is good for you. Not so according to the Mother's Union of Ghadruk, who have banned rakshi from the village built on this magnificent drink.
However, all is not lost. The recipe was preserved in the Gurung Museaum in Ghandruk, and is reproduced here for those who may like to try it at home. Millet can be bought in pet food shops in the west where it is sold as humble bird food. Liberate some of it for its true destiny as the prime ingredient of rakshi.
Millet
Millet, or nari as it is known in Nepal, is harvested from the fields in October and November. It is beaten by young girls and laid out on mats to dry in the strong Himalayan sunshine.
Al paikhe
Sieve the millet through an al paikhe.
Mix the millet with water and bring to the boil, simmering lightly until cooked.
Darib
The cooked millet, or pa as it is known in Nepal, should be placed in a basket (darib) for 3 days.
Pa queen
Transfer the pa to an earthenware pot called a pa queen for fifteen days.
Pa ghaya
The pa is then poured into a pa ghaya containing an eathen ware pa poo. The larger pa ghaya is sealed with the pa rhasani which is filled with cold water. The pa ghaya is heated, and as the temperature rises the pa evaporates and condenses on the pa rhasini. The condensed rakshi then drips down into the pa poo.
Pujai
The finished rakshi is stored in a wooden container known as a pujai. Pa is the local millet wine, the sale of which has also been banned by the mothers group in the village as it caused social problems.
If you make it at home it will probably cause you legal problems.
Day 22
Ghandruk
Birethanti
North
28°22.55'
28°18.72'
East
83°48.58'
83°46.56'
Altitude
1,943m
1,000m

Descent
943m
Time
2 hours 35 minutes
Distance
10 kilometres
Leave the policepost at Ghandruk and walk past a bridge and a rubbish tip. Walk down the 2 metre wide motorway. Pass a chorten (10 minutes) and then a huge landslide (20 minutes).
At the Kimche Guest House [28°21.23'N 83°48.37'E] 1660 metres, the owner wears western style overalls, a present from his son who works in Qatar in the middle east. Kimche has a remarkable 'Nature Conservation and Human Potential Centre' (35 minutes). As it says, not everything in the west is good. This ought to be obvious to the Nepalese. After all, if the western world offered everything we seek, we would not visit Nepal. I would strongly recommend a visit to the centre unless you happen to be German.
Continue down. The Gurung village of Landruk may be seen in the distance across the valley. Continue the descent down the valley to the Modi Khola. Cross a small stream by a suspension bridge ( 1 hour 5 minutes) [28°20.57'N 83°48.32'E] 1,220 metres. The village here is Sauli Bazar. Continue down the right bank of the Modi Khola. Cross a stream in a wood (1 hour 20 minutes) and then descend to the river bed (1 hour 25 minutes). Continue along the bank until you reach the Birethanti suspension bridge (2 hours 15 minutes). Visit the police post and ACAP post here. Carefully cross the suspension bridge which in 1997 was definitely in need of preventative maintenance. Above you is Nayapol from where the buses leave. The ones facing up hill go to Pokhara. ( 2 hours 35 minutes).